Placing acid in your face may sound like a recipe for disastrous stinging, burning, and peeling—a la Samantha’s lobster-red face in that unforgettable episode of Intercourse and the Metropolis. Lactic acid to your pores and skin, nevertheless, is something however harsh. It’s one of many least irritating actives round, actually. And it’s pleasant to almost all pores and skin varieties.
Together with its mild nature, it’s additionally fairly highly effective and efficient. And the consultants we consulted assured us that the standout chemical exfoliant additionally affords some distinctive advantages that its counterparts don’t.
To provide you a full image of the whole lot this versatile ingredient has to supply, we requested dermatologists to elucidate what lactic acid is, what sorts of skincare advantages it may well ship, and a number of the greatest methods to work it into your common routine (expert-approved product picks included).
What’s lactic acid?
“Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that comes from the fermentation of lactose, a sugar naturally present in milk,” Margarita Lolis, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in New Jersey, tells SELF. (Don’t fear, the type utilized in skincare merchandise is usually synthetically derived, and never from bitter milk.)1
As a fast reminder: Nearly all of skincare acids fall into one in every of three classes: alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), and poly-hydroxy acids (PHAs), which differ based mostly on their chemical composition and advantages. In comparison with its AHA buddies, lactic acid is among the least irritating, Dr. Lolis notes.2 That is largely as a result of it doesn’t sink as deeply into the pores and skin.2
For instance, glycolic acid (one other widespread alpha-hydroxy acid) is a smaller molecule that penetrates deeper and sooner into the pores and skin, Jeannette Graf, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant scientific professor at Mount Sinai Faculty of Medication in New York Metropolis, tells SELF. And that ups the probability of irritation.2
What can lactic acid do to your pores and skin?
As we touched on above, the first good thing about any alpha-hydroxy acid is exfoliation, though lactic acid is considerably of an overachiever and goes above and past that customary job description.
Lactic acid gently exfoliates.
“Lactic acid works by loosening the ‘glue’ that holds pores and skin cells collectively, encouraging exfoliation of the useless pores and skin cells and rising cell turnover,” Dr. Lolis explains.1 And that may result in a complete host of advantages, together with a brighter complexion, lowered hyperpigmentation and darkish spots, a smoother texture, and unclogged pores. And the truth that it may well do all of that with out inflicting irritation (a typical subject with stronger elements) makes it ultimate for folk with dry or delicate pores and skin.
Nonetheless, each of the dermatologists that SELF spoke with name out that increased concentrations will probably be extra intense. For instance, most over-the-counter at-home merchandise have a lactic acid focus of 10% or much less, says Dr. Lolis. When the ingredient is used for in-office chemical peels, that proportion is usually increased. Analysis reveals that at 12%, for instance, it may well penetrate deeper into the dermis (the center pores and skin layer), probably minimizing the looks of nice traces and wrinkles.3 (Though, it’s greatest to speak to a dermatologist earlier than getting any form of chemical peel to keep away from a pores and skin freakout—particularly if in case you have delicate pores and skin)
It’s additionally hydrating.
Right here’s the place issues get fascinating. Sometimes, exfoliating and moisturizing elements are two various things, proper? That’s not the case with lactic acid. Together with being an exfoliant, it’s additionally a humectant, which means it attracts water for a hydrating and plumping impact, Dr. Graf factors out. (Hyaluronic acid can be a preferred humectant, FYI.) That’s one more reason why it’s so well-tolerated: Its moisturizing properties assist to fight any potential dehydration from the exfoliation, notes Dr. Lolis. This makes it an particularly nice decide should you’re coping with dullness, dry pores and skin, and flaking.
It has antimicrobial properties.
Based on Dr. Lolis, lactic acid additionally has antimicrobial properties. Which means it kills pathogens like micro organism.4 That’s essential as a result of it may well assist create a balanced microbiome (the mixture of billions of microorganisms) on the floor of your pores and skin. The consequence? Much less irritation and a stronger, more healthy pores and skin barrier—which may additionally imply much less dryness, Dr. Lolis provides.5